In case you were wondering, this post was written before the Coronavirus lockdown. There are days when it feels very silly to be writing a travel blog during the midst of an international crisis - particularly when that crisis means nobody is allowed to travel in the first place - but as I've said before, just because we can't travel right now doesn't mean we're never going to travel again. It's a wonderfully human thing to dream about the future and all the things we want to see and do. From Yosemite to the ultimate van life road trip, I've heard lots of people planning their next dream trip. I would argue Mono Lake deserves to be on their lists, too. We can't travel now but it's okay to distract yourself for a brief time with daydreaming. If you're a daydreamer like me, then read on: Mono Lake (and the world) awaits. Mono Lake is a stunning lake in California east of the Sierra Nevada mountains, most known for its incredible tufa towers. These strange spires emerging from the depths of the lake attract photographers from around the world. What are Tufa?Scientifically speaking, tufa are “calcium-carbonate spires and knobs formed by interaction of freshwater springs and alkaline lake water.” As the lake receded, the towers emerged from the water, becoming visible. Basically: they're weird towers that form underwater and sort of look like stalagmites. The streams that fed the lake were partly diverted in 1941 in order to supply water to the city of Los Angeles, lowering the lake’s water level by over 40 feet. To put it into perspective: as tall as the tufa towers are, even the ones now far from the edge of the lake, the water had to be at least that tall so the towers could form. When you walk along the edge of the lake, the land you touch was once deep underwater. However, a new ruling in 1994 means the lake has been gradually refilling to its 1963 levels. When it’s done, most of the tufa towers will still be exposed, but part of the current trails will be underwater again. What is Mono Lake?Pronounced mow-no (not mah-no, like the disease), Mono Lake is known to the native Kutzadikaa people (pronounced Kootz-a'-di-ka-a') as Kutsavi ba’a (kutsavi (Alkali fly pupae) water) or Ona ba’a (salt water). Its second name, salt water, is pretty self-explanatory. Over the years, salts and other minerals have washed into the lake from streams. Fresh water evaporates, leaving behind the salts and minerals. Over time, the salts built up, so now the lake is about two and a half times as salty as the ocean! Mono is one of the oldest lakes in North America, at over 1 million years old, and is about 65 square miles large. It was originally established as a State Natural Reserve in order to protect its tufa towers, but extends to protect the lake and surrounding wetlands, making it a safe haven for the 1-2 million birds (over 80 species) that migrate here each year! It also protects the species that lend to Mono Lake’s other name: Alkali flies. You’ll find plenty of them as you walk along the lakeshore, but unlike certain other species of fly, they have little interest in people. Their early life is spent under the lake until adulthood, where they live above water unless searching for an algae meal. Alkali flies are the most important food source in the area for most birds, beating out the creepy-crawly brine shrimp that also inhabit the lake. They were also a traditional source of food for the Kutzadikaa people in the summer months, when they spent the warmer part of the year living in the Mono Basin. They collected the Alkali fly pupae from the shallows, eating the fat and protein-rich fly themselves and trading them with nearby peoples. When Should I Visit?At $3 per person for anyone over 15, there’s few excuses not to visit Mono Lake. Summer and the transitional seasons bring warmer weather and with it, more crowds. The early summer temperatures, when I visited, were moderately cool and had fewer people to contend with (at least compared to nearby Yosemite, 13 miles west), but some areas nearby were still snowed in, such as Tioga Pass, the most direct route to Yosemite, and Devil’s Postpile National Monument. If you want easy access to everything the area has to offer (which I highly recommend), braving the business of late summer is the way to go. As an added bonus, late June through Labor Day brings free naturalist-led walks through the South Tufa area three times a day, while bird walks are offered at the boardwalk starting in Mid-May. The park itself also highly promotes its winter season, when the tufa towers are dusted in snow. Mono Lake is within the Mammoth Lakes area, which is famous as a ski destination. The road to South Tufa is kept plowed, according to the park website, “when staffing permits, allowing year round access except immediately after large storms.” Weather permitting, South Tufa, Navy Beach, and the Old Marina area are all places recommended for cross-country skiing. When it comes to time of day to visit, everyone agrees: sunrise or sunset is the best, when the massive lake reflects the sun’s colors and bathes the tufa in a soft glow. If you only have time to visit during the noon hours, however, you’re still unlikely to be disappointed. There are no campsites within the park itself or the surrounding Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area, but dispersed camping is allowed in certain areas of the Scenic Area. Other than that, established campgrounds are available in nearby in Lundy Canyon, Lee Vining Canyon, and the June Lake Loop, on a mostly first come, first served basis. If a hotel is more your speed, Lee Vining is very close to the lake and has a few options, while the larger resort town of Mammoth Lakes 30 minutes south will have a wide variety of places to stay with a diverse price range. What to DoSince I only had half a day here, I wanted to make the most of my time. Bird watching and photography are two of the top draws here at Mono Lake, and one of the best ways to dive into both of them is to travel one of the park’s two main hikes. Most hikes and areas in the park allow dogs so long as they are kept on leashes. I first visited the Mono Lake Boardwalk trail leading to the north shore tufa. The tufa here were smaller, and we could not approach them as close as we could along other trails, but at the end of the boardwalk you are allowed to walk to the water’s edge if you don’t mind a little mud. South Tufa Trail was my next stop. It’s a self-guided nature trail, with informational plaques explaining the history and geology of the lake. The park recommends this trail if you only have time for one stop, and I found it to be much more impressive than the boardwalk trail, as it offered much better views of the tufa towers (just don’t touch the tufa, as they’re very fragile). The South Tufa trail is only a mile long, but it allows you to wander through a Dr Seuss-inspired wonderland of strange towers at the lake’s edge. Aside from hiking, going out onto the lake is one of the park’s most popular activities. Because the lake is so salty and rich in minerals, the water is very dense, meaning everything floats quite well! You’re allowed to swim in the salty lake, and legend claims that bathing in the lake will cure “almost” anything. All types of boating are permitted, as well, but you’re advised to stop by the Scenic Area Visitor Center for directions and information. There are some seasonal restrictions: access is restricted to all islands between April 1 and August 1 each year to protect the nesting gulls, and boaters are forbidden from being within 200 yards of Osprey nesting sites located on offshore tufa towers April 1st through Sept. 1st. Other than that, however, you’re free to roam to your heart's content! The TakeawayI hadn’t been to Mono Lake since I was a child, long enough that I’d forgotten I ever visited. Yes, the flies are everywhere, but they don’t bother you; yes, it’s muddy and it doesn’t smell amazing; yes, none of that matters. What matters is that this place is a beautiful oasis of life. The delicate food chains allow each species here to thrive, and the landscape itself is so strange and wonderful it’s hard to put into words. It’s not difficult to see why Mono Lake is such a popular destination at any time of year. There are quite a few otherworldly sites in this area, but there’s something so special about the strange tufa towers here. Despite all its water troubles throughout the years, with the Park’s dedication to revitalizing the lake and protecting all its strange features and wildlife, I’m hopeful that this park will be preserved in its beauty for years to come. See more adventures!Like this post? Why not share it?If you enjoyed this article, please leave me a comment telling me what you think! Or, if you found it useful, share it with your friends! You'll be helping me turn my passion for travel into a business, and more importantly, you'll be helping your friends out with any travel questions they might have, too. If you liked this post, you may also like:
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Hi, there! Call me Kris. I’m a world traveler, author and artist working to showcase the world's beauty and inspire you to find your confidence to see the world!
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